Jerusalem: a first-timer's complete guide

Jerusalem is unlike any city on earth. Within a single square kilometer of the Old City you'll walk through the Jewish, Christian, Muslim, and Armenian quarters — each with its own character, cuisine, and sacred sites.

Start at the Jaffa Gate and work clockwise. The Christian Quarter holds the Church of the Holy Sepulchre; the Jewish Quarter leads to the Western Wall; the Muslim Quarter hides the Via Dolorosa; and the Armenian Quarter is the quietest, with beautiful tilework and an ancient cathedral. Budget at least two full days for the Old City alone.

The best months to visit are March–May and September–November when temperatures are mild and crowds are manageable. Avoid the week before Easter and major Jewish holidays unless you specifically want the festive atmosphere — sites will be packed. The golden light of late afternoon on the limestone walls is worth waiting for; plan your Mount of Olives visit for sunset.